Sirbaz Khan: First Pakistani to Summit All 14 Eight-Thousanders Without Supplemental Oxygen

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On May 18, 2025, Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan achieved a historic milestone by becoming the first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 meters without the use of supplemental oxygen. This remarkable feat places him among an elite group of climbers worldwide who have accomplished this challenging endeavor.

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A Journey of Determination and Resilience

Sirbaz Khan hails from the Aliabad area of Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. He began his climbing career in 2016 and embarked on his quest to conquer the 14 eight-thousanders in 2017 with the ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126 meters) . Over the years, he successfully summited peaks including K2, Lhotse, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Annapurna, Everest, Gasherbrum I and II, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Shishapangma. While he had previously completed ascents of all 14 peaks, some were achieved with the aid of supplemental oxygen. Determined to fulfill his original goal of climbing all without artificial oxygen, Sirbaz returned to Annapurna in April 2025 and Kangchenjunga in May 2025, successfully summiting both without supplemental oxygen .

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A Historic Achievement

With the successful ascent of Kangchenjunga (8,586 meters), the world’s third-highest mountain, Sirbaz Khan completed his quest to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen . This accomplishment not only marks a personal triumph but also a significant milestone for Pakistan’s mountaineering community. He joins a select group of climbers worldwide who have achieved this feat, highlighting his exceptional endurance, skill, and determination.

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National and International Recognition

Sirbaz Khan’s achievement has been lauded both nationally and internationally. Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, stated, “Sirbaz Khan has made the entire nation proud. Completing all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen is a rare and heroic achievement. He is a symbol of Pakistani resilience, skill, and courage on the highest peaks of the world” .

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Inspiring Future Generations

Sirbaz Khan’s journey from humble beginnings to becoming a world-renowned mountaineer serves as an inspiration to aspiring climbers and adventurers. His dedication to achieving his goals, despite the challenges and risks involved, exemplifies the spirit of perseverance and determination. His story encourages others to pursue their passions and strive for excellence, regardless of the obstacles they may face.